Category: Travel (Page 4 of 4)

Pictures are pending. I would like to upload some to the site but unfortunately everything is in Turkish and I cannot understand a word.

Yesterday James went to the berbur of Bozburun, the barbar. It was quite the experience. Big straight edge blade, the pinching of the skin, the ear shave. All in all an interesting male ritual. The day before we went with about 10 people from another boat to a Turkish bath. The captain of the boat asked last night if it was true that we all went in the buff. Yes. I was in peels of laughter to find out that it is rather unprecedented for a group to all be buff. It is more funny because it was James and I with a bunch of 60 and 70 year olds who have been friends for years, never of course have they hung around in a hot room naked together.

A Turkish bath is a bit like a car wash. You change into a tea towel, lay on an octogan slab of marble that is steaming hot, some large Turkish man comes in and rubs you down to take off all the dead skin. Very gross. Then you are sent off for the shower. Next up is the soap, which is in a pillow case that they fill with air. When they drop the case on you there is soap foam everywhere. That was my favourite part. You have to flip over at one point and you are so soapy that you just spin right around. Second shower. Then you are off to the oil massage. The female massage was quite gentle but the sounds from the men were quite different, much like the thwapping sound at the end of a car wash. It was not a real massage more of an oil rub.

Overall it was a strange naked experience with folks I barely know but certainly know a lot more about now. The men and women are together for the entire time except the massage, and you really just have the tea towel, which the Turkish men sort of reposition every 2 minutes so they can scrub, soap, and oil.

Dirsek is our stop tonight. It is a one tavern town.

Basic impressions of Turkey: I am enjoying the landscape and food more in Turkey than Greece. The food is amazing, lots of great casserole dishes–meat with spicy sauces, onions and peppers. But everything is more expensive.

I bought two Turkish carpets yesterday.

And most important, happy birthday to Janice today and The White Rabbit tomorrow. The one taverna town tonight has no phone and it is quite surprising that we have an internet connection here in Bozburun.

Next up Istanbul.

We should be in Turkey today, passports stamped and arriving in Turgutreis, which is a lively little town and hopefully has a laundry facility. Turgutreis is known for spectacular sunsets and I hope to appreciate one over an evening cocktail.

Day 8 we sail south for Palamut, another fishing village. I do hope there are things I can eat. Fish allergy.

We might be able to go to Knidos, which around 400-500 BC was the key harbour in the ancient world.

Day 9 we’re off to Ova Buku, another tiny, out-of-the-way spot with a fantastic beachfront taverna. I’ve been told to expect the best home-cooked Turkish food and belly dancing. Swivel swivel, snake hips.

Day 10 we sail to Datca, and hopefully hit an ATM. Datca has several bars and a haman so perhaps a Turkish bath is in order.

Day 11 is Bozburun, a village that is home to a still-thriving wooden boat-building industry. I think there is a hammock with my name on it.

Day 12 we take a gentle run to Dirsek and celebrate James’ mom’s birthday. HAPPY BIRTHDAY.

Day 13 we sail to Keci Buku and celebrate my mom’s birthday. ALL THE BEST RABBIT.

And sadly on Day 14 we disembark and travel 30 minutes to Marmaris and back to modern-day Turkey.

We plan to hang out in Marmaris and take the ferry to Rhodes, but we eventually have to get up to Dalaman so that we can fly to Istanbul.

More adventures await us.

Today is the day James and I board our sailboat. We embark at 11 am in Lakki, which is the main harbour on Leros. We get all the details, like how to use the boat toilet, then we sail for Lipsos, island of the 42 blue-domed churches. Lipsos is a pretty untouristy place, which I’m sure will be well appreciated after the bustle of London and Athens.

The next day we head to Arki, a little island with a permanent population of 47 people. Perhaps we’ll be able to meet them all. We’re going to Manoli’s place. Manoli runs a little oasis of a taverna and is apparently quite the DJ.

Day 3 we sail to Patmos and explore the famous Monastery Island where St. John was inspired by visions to write the Book of Revelations. The 10th century monastery built by the Crusader Knights is still active and part of daily life. I’m looking forward to the bakery.

Day 4 we sail for Pandeli, day 5 Paleonissos, which has little more than a herd of goats, day 6 Vathi and up to a tiny fishing village to Poppy’s, which is a little family taverna. I hear that Poppy’s mom makes the best homemade dolmades. Then day 7 we leave for Kos at sunrise. While the skipper is dealing with the paperwork to get us into Turkey, we’re going to see the famous tree where Hippocrates supposedly taught, then we’ll enjoy a chocolate milkshake on the waterfront as recommended by the skipper.

We’re sailing with SeaScape Sailing and they sail the boat but also teach us how to sail. I think there are about 8 people per boat and they take 3 boats. The first thing they told us was to read the itinerary then ignore it. We go where the weather lets us go and some of these small islands can become inaccessible.

Next stop Turkey.