Today is the day James and I board our sailboat. We embark at 11 am in Lakki, which is the main harbour on Leros. We get all the details, like how to use the boat toilet, then we sail for Lipsos, island of the 42 blue-domed churches. Lipsos is a pretty untouristy place, which I’m sure will be well appreciated after the bustle of London and Athens.

The next day we head to Arki, a little island with a permanent population of 47 people. Perhaps we’ll be able to meet them all. We’re going to Manoli’s place. Manoli runs a little oasis of a taverna and is apparently quite the DJ.

Day 3 we sail to Patmos and explore the famous Monastery Island where St. John was inspired by visions to write the Book of Revelations. The 10th century monastery built by the Crusader Knights is still active and part of daily life. I’m looking forward to the bakery.

Day 4 we sail for Pandeli, day 5 Paleonissos, which has little more than a herd of goats, day 6 Vathi and up to a tiny fishing village to Poppy’s, which is a little family taverna. I hear that Poppy’s mom makes the best homemade dolmades. Then day 7 we leave for Kos at sunrise. While the skipper is dealing with the paperwork to get us into Turkey, we’re going to see the famous tree where Hippocrates supposedly taught, then we’ll enjoy a chocolate milkshake on the waterfront as recommended by the skipper.

We’re sailing with SeaScape Sailing and they sail the boat but also teach us how to sail. I think there are about 8 people per boat and they take 3 boats. The first thing they told us was to read the itinerary then ignore it. We go where the weather lets us go and some of these small islands can become inaccessible.

Next stop Turkey.